~How To Select The Best Watercolor Supplies~

Professional-grade watercolor paper is, in fact, not really paper.  It is 100% cotton.  It is acid-free, so it will not yellow.  Student-grade papers (generally found in tablet form) are made of wood pulp and yellow over time.  These tablets will not allow you to create the interesting techniques watercolors are capable of accomplishing.  Always use a professional-grade paper, even if you are a beginner.  It will be labeled as 100% cotton.  It will be made with sizing, which reduces the paper's flexibility when dry and allows the paint to soak into the fibers slowly.  The paper generally comes in 22" x 30" sheets and can be cut to any size.

When selecting your watercolor paper, you need to choose the paper's surface and the paper's weight.  Let's begin with the paper's surface.  There are three different surfaces available.  The amount of pressure applied during the compression process determines the paper's surface.  You need to select your surface according to the type of subject you are painting.

1. Hot-pressed - This paper is very smooth (like it was ironed).  The paint will sit more on the surface and move slightly, making it a little harder to control the paint.  Some artists feel you cannot glaze colors because the brush will pick up the layer below.  I don't find this to be true.  I love this surface because I don't want the paper to dictate the texture of my subject.  I also enjoy having my paint move on the paper; control is highly overrated.  It is much more interesting to step back and let the watercolors work their magic.  This surface is nice for creating details or painting smooth subjects.  I think it is perfect for portraits and floral paintings.
2. Cold-pressed - This paper is more compressed.  It has a texture or "tooth."  This means the paint will settle into the little grooves, making it easier to control the paint.  This is probably the most popular surface.  This surface is nice for creating large washes.  Cold-pressed works well for landscapes, cityscapes, and seascapes.
3. Rough - This paper is very loosely compressed.  Just as the name suggests, this paper has a very rough texture.  The water and paint will really soak into this paper (more like the surface of a towel).  This paper is nice for creating dry brush techniques.  It works well for painting rocks, wood, and foliage. 

Watercolor paper is available in different weights.  The paper's weight refers to the weight of 500 sheets of standard 22" x 30" paper;  the higher the weight, the better the quality of the paper.  I don't recommend using any paper under 140lbs (even for beginners and children).

1. 140lbs - This weight is the most popular.  The nice feature of this weight of paper is its affordability.  Unfortunately, it must be stretched.  When watercolor paper becomes wet, it will buckle.  Preventing buckling is a necessary practice.  You must let the paper soak in water for about 20 minutes and then fasten it to a board.  This is known as "stretching" the watercolor paper.  It would be best if you let the paper dry completely before sketching on your composition.
2. 300lbs -   The nice feature of this paper's weight is it doesn't require stretching unless you are using huge amounts of water.  I always use this paper, and I never stretch it.  Unfortunately, it is more expensive.  I feel it is worth it because paper's heavier weight is more durable (for scrubbing and glazing).    

There are several types of watercolor brushes.  I will go over the most popular types and give you a guide for using each.  When selecting a brush, you need to consider the shape, the size, and the material used to make the brush.

Let's begin with the material of the brush.

1. Natural brushes - These brushes are made of hair, such as squirrel, goat, sable (which is really mink or weasel), or a combination of several.  These brushes are fabulous because they can hold a lot of water.  This makes them ideal for washes since you don't have to refill your brush, causing backwash areas.  The round brushes also come to a nice point, making it easier to paint tight places on your painting.  The downside to these brushes is they are more expensive.  Also, the hair can break easily, so you have to treat it with care.  They do not have much spring (for control of the paint), so it is more difficult to use them in areas where you need fine details.  Use these brushes for washes.
2. Synthetic brushes - These brushes are made of nylon or polyester filaments.  The best features of these brushes are the cost and durability.  They are the most inexpensive, and they are tough.  You can even use them to scrub your color off of the paper.  They have a lot of spring, so they are good for painting details.  The downside is they don't hold much water.  Use these brushes for scrubbing and detail work.
3. Blends - These brushes are a blend of synthetic and natural materials.  If you are on a budget, these brushes are your best investment.  They are more affordable than natural brushes; they hold more water than a synthetic; they have more spring than natural.  

2.  Flat watercolor brushes are measured by the width of the ferrule.  The number on the brush indicates the width.  The larger the number, the wider the brush will be.  Flat brushes work well for large washes, scrubbing, and blending larger areas.  Remember, you can turn them to the side and use the brush's corner to squeeze into smaller areas.  Pictured here is a set of brushes.  You will see a combination of both round and flat brushes.

This is a lot of information to combine and make a decision.  Let me make a few suggestions.

1. Buy the best you can afford.  Buying cheap brushes will make you crazy in the long run, and you will not enjoy watercolors.
2. If you are starting, buy a round and a flat brush (maybe a couple of sizes).  Make sure it is a blend of both synthetic and natural fibers.   I find these are the easiest for beginners (even children) to handle.  
3. As you become more familiar with the painting process, you can add to your collection of brushes.  The right tool for the job makes a world of difference.
4. Always paint with the largest brush you are comfortable using.  If you paint with a small brush in a large area, your paint will dry too quickly, and you will have a blotchy look to your painting.  A larger brush prevents you from becoming too tight and painting in a tedious style.
5. Be nice to your brushes; they are an investment.  Always rinse them out when you are done painting and stand them or lay them in a manner so the tip of the brush will not be damaged.  Never leave them standing in water while you paint; it will ruin the tip and loosen the ferrule.  Never scrub with a brush having natural hair.

If you are starting, keep it simple.  Start with just a few colors.  I have several to recommend to you.

1. Winsor Yellow - Winsor and Newton (semi-transparent)
2. Burnt Sienna - Daniel Smith (semi-transparent)
3. Quinacridone Red - Daler-Rowney (transparent)
4. Antwerp Blue - Winsor and Newton (transparent)

There is a lot of information concerning watercolor paints.  For now, know you need to buy a professional-grade of paint.  Student grades do not have enough pigment, and you will be disappointed with the colors.  Try to buy the best paints for your budget.  I will always include my list of paints in the watercolor lessons on my blog.